The one where I'm in Ελλάδα

I was in Αθήνα
I spent a couple of days in Athens, wandering around some of the historic sites, eating gyros, and practicing my reading skills on every sign I saw.

Overall, Athens is beautiful. Every time you turn a corner you hit some other ancient ruin or something. And from all over the city you can see the Acropolis (a collection of temples and such, including the Parthenon, atop a hill--acropolis means "high city"). And the taller hill in town, Mt. Lycabettus. And from the Acropolis or Lycabettus you can see the surrounding mountains and islands--I always forget, or never knew, that Athens is right on the sea.

At night, they light up all the historic sites. Very pretty.

I saw the Parthenon!


Oh, sorry, that's the replica in Nashville. What I really saw was a whole mess of people and construction.


The historic sites, especially the Acropolis, were extremely crowded. And everything is under construction--the old stuff is still okay, but the repairs they made in the 1920s (or even 1990's) all need re-repair.

I also saw a Putzmeister.

I also saw the changing of the guard. (Hey, I took movies of that, too, which you can watch at my new video site!) When they've changed, they wander off down the street. Not sure how they do it in England, but I always pictured them just walking inside or something.

I am in Θεσσαλονίκη
Thessaloniki is second largest Greek city and the main center of Macedonia. It's also called Salonica, as in Gardens of.

Took the train to get here. Decided to take the overnight train so that I could avoid a night in a hotel and have all day Saturday if necessary to find a place to stay here. Turns out, I didn't have a seat. Spent some time in a virtual cattle car. Saw Greece on fire. Standing all night wasn't really an option, so I eventually made my way with some Spanish students to a car where there was some room on the side to lay down in the aisle. Right under the air conditioner...brr.

I'm Jewish (and a Sethicist!), but I don't get so excited about Jew Tours. The Jews of Central Australia or such just doesn't interest me. But, and I didn't know this until I got here, Thessaloniki has a fascinating Jewish history--apparently, this used to be Hymietown.

I went to the the Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki. Some facts:

• In 1492, 60 years after it was conquered by the Turks, the total population was 11,000. When the Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492, 15-20,000 moved here.
• By the 1870s there were 70,000 Jews in town, half the population
• In August, 1917 a fire wiped out much of the city. 31 synagogues were destroyed and 54,000 Jews were left homeless
• There were 50,000 left in 1940. The Axis powers occupied the city in 1941.
• From March-August '43, 19 train "shipments" carried most of the Jewish population to Auschwitz/Birkenau. Over 95% of the Jews of Thessaloniki were killed.
• Today, there are about 1000 Jews here (out of a total population of 800,000)
  

Also, I think every American Jew in Greece was at the museum while I was there.

Language
My reading is getting better. I still wind up having to sound out a lot of words, but I'm getting quicker.

Basically, Β is 'v', Γ is 'g' or 'y', Δ is 'd', Η is 'ee', Θ is 'th', Ι is 'ee' or 'y', Λ is 'l', Ξ is 'x', Π is 'p', Ρ is 'r', Σ is 's', Υ is ü, Φ is 'f', Χ is 'ch', Ψ is 'ps', Ω is 'o', MΠ can be 'b', TZ serves as a 'j' in foreign words and names, and the rest are pretty much the same. And of course some letters look a bit different in lowercase than in the block printing on street signs, where A is α, Γ is γ, Δ is δ, Z is ζ, H is η, Λ is λ, M is μ, N is ν, Ξ is ξ, Σ is σ or ς, Υ is υ and Ω is ω. This should all be familiar to you if you studied math or science or went to a school with fraternities.

Tennis
I went to T.G.I. Friday's to watch the Wimbledon finals. It was the only place I could find a tv. I have _not_ been to the Applebee's or Ruby Tuesdays that are just around the corner--it's great to be back in civilization!

I showed up to see that Venus, who I was expecting, was playing someone named Bartoli. She looks awkward, but gets great depth and placement, especially with her backhand. I haven't seen enough of her game to judge, maybe, but it seemed like she should be more active in approaching, especially with the deep up-the-lines. I'd never heard of her before...wonder if we'll see her for the next ten years or never again...?

Overall, not too exciting. Especially the maybe the 15 minute break where they both got medical treatments.

The men's matchup was what I expected. My overall impression: Roger Federer is a god, and I'm not sure Rafael Nadal is mortal either. They're so quick, and move so well, and get great placement and pace and hit such impossible angles. Federer's serve is more dangerous, and that helps him most here. But the rest Nadal's

Best Wimbledon quote:
"I saw Pierce Brosnan in the crowd, one of my favourite actors. I said to myself, it's not possible I play so bad in front of him. Because he watch me and I play so bad, it was unbelievable. So I try to feel it a bit more the ball, play more smartly. I saw he was cheering for me. I kept going and I won, so maybe a little bit for Pierce Brosnan. I was focusing on Pierce Brosnan because he is so beautiful."
-Marion Bartoli (the 18 seed), on her comeback to win the semis over the Justine Henin (the 1 seed) after losing the first set 6-1.

Best tennis quote ever:
"Nobody beats Vitas Gerulaitis seventeen times in a row"
-Vitas Gerulaitis, on beating Jimmy Connors after he'd lost their previous sixteen matches

What else to do in Greece
I showed up in Auckland at the end of November with a ticket out of Christchurch a month later and no other plans. I went to the tourism office the first day and they were super helpful--the woman basically sat down with me and we mapped out a month's itinerary.

I went to the tourism office in Athens. I said "I will be here for one month. Where should I go?" and the guy got mad at me for asking such an idiotic question. How should I know where you should go? It's a big country. How could you ask my favourite place? I like them all. Here, here's a stack of brochures. Go away!

There's too many islands to see them all, or even each island group, but I know I want to spend at least a little island time. And not sure where to go on the mainland, either. But I found a postcard stand today that had a bunch of cards of places that looked nice, so I bought cards for where I want to go, and I'll plan my trip around those.

Hey, it's no more random than why I came to Greece in the first place. Have I mentioned that? I was on the phone with the travel agent, giving him my itinerary. I was eating hummus, and thought "I wish I had some olives right now". So, while he was pricing stuff anyway I asked what it would cost to add a stop in Greece. He said the flights would be $100 more, I said "yeah, let's add a month there at the end."

Okay, it's really late, I'm off to bed.

ta,
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